By Carlos Matamoros and Israel Ortega, Revolution Editors-in-Chief, Latin America and Mexico
They are famous and cool as liquid nitrogen, reachable only by a selected few though everyone admires them — rockstars are like that, and in the watchmaking world, these three pieces represent different degrees of cool, from Mick Jagger to Eric Clapton.
Richard Mille enjoys making watches for his close friends. Most of them, residents in the sports Valhalla, are bestowed pieces that transcend all conventions and redefine all concepts of high-tech watchmaking. Argentinian Pablo Mac Donough, arguably the best polo player ever, is not an exception.
The science behind the new Richard Mille Pablo Mac Donough is well anchored upon some previous timekeepers that revolutionized the idea of high-impact sports.
The second chapter in this Mille-Mac Donough saga takes from the best of Mille’s recent performances, such as the Nadal RM 27-01’s TPT carbon case or the Sapphire RM 056’s cable, with pulley and pre-tensors to suspend and protect the tourbillon movement from shocks up to five Gs. Additionally, a laminated sapphire crystal prevents any splinters from affecting the mechanical heart if shattered during a chukka. Only 30 pieces will be available in this intense blue.
This year, Panerai took its original 2010 l’Astronomo, with its tourbillon and equation of time, and added some romance and cool watch technology to it.
The new Cal. P.2005/GLS reveals a large moonphase and a day and night indication with two superimposed discs. The upper one, with its day, night and 24-hour scale rotates, naturally, over 24 hours. The lower one, with the engraved moon, rotates in the precise lunar cycle of 29 days and 12:44:03 hours.
On the front, besides the sunrise and sunset indications, we find the aforementioned equation of time linear display at six, and the regulator at nine o’clock. Now, pay attention to that date disc which, thanks to a new Panerai patent, only shows its number through a polarized window at three o’clock. If all this wasn’t enough, the final surprise comes with the fine tuning of the moonphase and sunrise and sunset indications, according to the collector’s place of residence.
In 1957, predating the slim fashion trends, a slim breakthrough of a different kind took place: the 9P caliber from Piaget was born, an event that became one of the main features of Piaget watchmaking, which now has gone to the extreme with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch, erasing the boundaries between case and movement, further than the 900P originally did. The case is machined out of an exotic alloy of cobalt so stiff that it would not deform while also serving as a mainplate for the paper-thin movement components. Each wheel has been taken to its absolute minimum thickness: 0.12mm, so there is no room for mistakes — and no room for anything else, for that matter — the barrel and oscillator are mounted on micro ball bearings and the crown is integrated into the case. The end result is a complete watch just 2mm thick, with a dimensionality that defies logic. The future of Piaget’s slim watches will benefit greatly from many of these developments.